support@countrysidequilts.com
(573) 616-1670
support@countrysidequilts.com
Phone: (573) 616-1670
support@countrysidequilts.com
(573) 616-1670
support@countrysidequilts.com
Phone: (573) 616-1670
You’ve done it! You’ve spent hours (maybe weeks or months, we don’t judge!) choosing the perfect fabrics, cutting precisely, and piecing together a masterpiece. The quilt top is finally finished, and it looks spectacular. Now comes the part where the magic happens: the quilting.
Whether you’re sending your project off to a professional longarm quilting service or bringing it into our Jefferson City shop, that transition from "top" to "quilt" is an exciting one. But before you hand over your "baby," there’s a little bit of homework to do.
At Countryside Quilts®, we see hundreds of quilt tops come through our doors. We know exactly what makes a longarm quilter do a happy dance, and what makes them reach for the seam ripper. Proper preparation is the secret ingredient to getting a professional, flat, and square finish.
So, grab a cup of coffee, fire up the iron, and let’s walk through the ultimate guide to prepping your quilt for its longarm spa day.
You might be thinking, "Can't the longarm machine just quilt over the wrinkles?" Well, yes and no. A longarm machine is a powerhouse, but it’s not a magician. If your quilt top has "wavy" borders, loose threads, or unpressed seams, those issues can become permanent features once they’re stitched down.
When we talk about professional quilting service, we’re aiming for a quilt that hangs straight on the wall or lies flat on the bed. Good prep ensures that the machine can move smoothly across the fabric without getting hung up on "bird’s nests" of thread or causing unsightly pleats.
The first and most important step in prep quilt for longarm is a thorough pressing. And we mean thorough.
Start by pressing the quilt top from the back. Make sure every seam is going the direction you intended. Whether you prefer to press seams to the side or press them open, consistency is key. If you have "T-seams" (where multiple seams meet), try to press them in a way that reduces bulk.
Once the back is tidy, flip it over and press the front. Use a bit of steam (carefully!) or a pressing spray to get everything as flat as a pancake. A flat quilt top is a happy quilt top.

As you press, keep an eye out for any "micro-pleats" at the seam lines. This happens when the fabric folds over itself slightly before the seam. If these aren't pressed out now, the longarm will stitch them into place forever.
We’ve all been there: you finish a quilt, and then you notice a dark red thread showing through your beautiful white background fabric. This is called "shadowing," and it’s the bane of every quilter’s existence.
Take a few minutes to flip your quilt top over and trim all those loose thread tails. These "whiskers" can get caught in the longarm’s hopping foot or, worse, show through the lighter parts of your quilt.

Pro Tip: Use a lint roller on the front and back of your quilt top after trimming. It’s amazing (and slightly horrifying) how much thread, lint, and pet hair can accumulate on a project!
If there is one thing that causes "waves" in a finished quilt, it’s borders that aren't square. If your borders are longer than the center of your quilt, that extra fabric has to go somewhere: and usually, it ends up as a "wave" or a "bubble" that the longarmer has to try and quilt out.
Lay your quilt top out on a large flat surface. Measure the width of the quilt in three places: the top, the middle, and the bottom. These numbers should be the same. Do the same for the length (left side, middle, right side).
If your measurements are off by more than an inch, you might need to do some "creative" squaring up. Using a high-quality ruler, like the Quilters Select Square it Ruler, makes this process much easier. You can find our favorite quilting tools and rulers here.

When you bring your quilt in for our longarm quilting Missouri service, the backing is just as important as the top.
Your backing (and your batting, if you’re providing it) needs to be significantly larger than your quilt top. Why? Because the backing has to be attached to the rollers of the longarm frame. As the quilt is rolled, the fabric can "shrink" slightly as the stitches pull it together.
The Golden Rule: Your backing must be at least 4 inches wider on all sides than your quilt top. That means if your quilt is 60" x 80", your backing needs to be at least 68" x 88".
Just like the top, the backing needs to be square. If you’ve pieced your backing, make sure you’ve trimmed off the selvages from the internal seams. Selvages are woven more tightly than the rest of the fabric and don't "give" the same way, which can cause puckering along the seam line.
Does your quilt have a definite "top"? If so, let us know! Use a safety pin and a small piece of paper to mark the top of the quilt top and the top of the backing. This is especially important if your backing fabric is directional (nobody wants upside-down birds on the back of their quilt!).
At Countryside Quilts®, owned and operated by Countryside General Stores LLC, we treat every quilt like it’s our own. Our Jefferson City Service Center is equipped with top-of-the-line longarm machines and a team that loves seeing your creativity come to life.
Whether you’re a local Missouri maker or you’re looking for a professional quilting service from afar, we’re here to help. We offer a wide range of edge-to-edge patterns, from whimsical swirls to modern geometric lines, ensuring your quilt says exactly what you want it to say.

Ready to finish that masterpiece? You can visit our longarm quilting service page to learn more about our process or stop by our store in Jefferson City to chat with our experts. We can’t wait to help you cross that finish line!
Remember, a little bit of prep today means a lot of perfection tomorrow. Happy quilting!
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